Puerh

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Puerh, Pu'er tea, Puer tea or Bolay tea (Chinese: 普洱茶, Standard Mandarin Pǔěrchá, Cantonese Póunéichá, Póuléichá, Hakka Pu³ ngi³ cha², Wu Phu³ re⁶ zo⁶, Minnan 臭殕茶 Chhàu-phú-tê) is a type of tea made from a "large leaf" variety of the tea plant Camellia sinensis and named after Pu'er county near Simao, Yunnan, China.

Puerh tea can be purchased as either raw/green (sheng) or cooked/ripened (shu), depending on processing method or aging. Raw puerh can be roughly classified on the tea oxidation scale as a green tea, and the cooked and aged raw variants as post-fermented tea. The fact that puerh fits in more than one tea type poses some problems for classification. For this reason, the "green tea" aspect of puerh is sometimes ignored, and the tea is regarded solely as a post-fermented product. Unlike other teas that should ideally be consumed shortly after production, puerh and other post-fermented teas can be drunk immediately or aged for many years; puerh teas are often now classified by year and region of production much like wine vintages.

While there are many counterfeit puerhs on the market and real aged puerh is difficult to find and identify, it is still possible to find puerh that is 10 to 50 years old, as well as a few from the late Qing dynasty. Indeed, tea connoisseurs and speculators are willing to pay high prices for older puerh, upwards of thousands of dollars per cake.

Puerh tea is available loose leaf or as cakes of compacted tea (see Tea brick).

Introduction and history

Puerh tea is traditionally made with leaves from old wild tea trees of a variety known as "broad leaf tea" (Traditional: 大葉 Simplified: 大叶, dà yè) or Camellia sinensis var. assamica, which is found in southwest China as well as the bordering tropical regions in Burma, Vietnam, Laos, and the very eastern parts of India. The shoots and young leaves from this varietal are often covered with fine hairs, with the pekoe (two leaves and a bud) larger than other tea varietals. The leaves are also slightly different in chemical composition, which alter the taste and smell of the brewed tea, as well as its desirability for aging. Due to the scarcity of old wild tea trees, puerh made using such trees blended from different tea mountains of Yunnan are highly valued, while more and more connoisseurs are seeking puerh with leaves taken from a single tea mountain's wild forests. The history of puerh tea can be traced back to the Eastern Han Dynasty.^[1]

Puerh is well known for the fact that it is a compressed tea and also that it typically ages well to produce a pleasant drink. Through storage, the tea typically takes on a darker colour and mellower flavour characteristics. Often puerh leaves are compressed into tea cakes or bricks, and are wrapped in various materials, which when stored away from excessive moisture, heat, and sunlight help to mature the tea. Pressing of puerh into cakes and aging the tea cakes possibly originated from the natural aging process that happened in the storerooms of tea drinkers and merchants, as well as on horseback caravans on the Ancient tea route (茶馬古道; pinyin: chámǎ gǔdaò) that was used in ancient Yunnan to trade tea to Tibet and more northern parts of China.^[1] Compression of the tea into dense bulky objects likely eased horseback transport and reduced damage to the tea.

Production

All types of puerh tea are created from máochá（毛茶), a mostly unoxidized green tea processed from a "large leaf" variety of Camellia sinensis found in the mountains of southern Yunnan. Maocha can be immediately sold or compressed to produce raw puerh, or can undergo fermentation for several months to produce cooked puerh.

While unaged and unprocessed raw puerh is technically a type of green tea, cooked or aged raw puerh has occasionally been mistakenly categorised as a subcategory of black tea due to the dark red colour of its leaves and liquor. However, puerh in both its cooked or aged forms has undergone secondary oxidization and fermentation caused both by organisms growing in the tea as well as from free-radical oxidation, thus making it a unique type of tea.

In China, where fully oxidized tea ("black tea" in the West) is known as hong cha ("red tea"), puerh is classified as a "black tea" (hei cha, "black tea").

Raw puerh and Máochá

After picking appropriate tender leaves, the first step in making raw or cooked puerh is converting the leaf to máochá (青毛茶 or 毛茶; literally, "light green rough tea" or "rough tea" respectively). Plucked leaves are handled gingerly to prevent bruising and unwanted oxidation. Weather permitting, the leaves are then spread out in the sun or a ventilated space to wilt and remove some of the water content.^[1] On overcast or rainy days, the leaves will be wilted by light heating, a slight difference in processing that will affect the quality of the resulting maocha and puerh. The wilting process may be skipped altogether depending on the tea processer.

Relatively young Raw puerh. Note the grey and dark green tones.

The leaves are then dry pan-fried using a large wok in a process called "kill green" (殺青; pinyin: shā qīng), which arrests enzyme activity in the leaf and prevents further oxidation. With enzymatic oxidation halted, the leaves can then be rolled, rubbed, and shaped through several steps into strands. The shaped leaves are then ideally dried in the sun and then manually picked through to remove bad leaves.^[1] Once dry, máochá can be sent directly to the factory to be pressed into raw puerh, or to undergo further processing to make cooked puerh.^[1] Sometimes maocha is aged uncompressed and sold at its maturity as aged loose-leaf raw puerh.

Raw puerh tea (Chinese: 生茶; pinyin: shēngchá or Chinese: 青茶; pinyin: qīngchá ), also known as "uncooked puerh" or "green puerh," is simply máochá tea leaves that have been compressed into its final form without additional processing.

Cooked puerh

Cooked puerh. Note the orange-brown tone of the lighter leaves due to oxidation/fermentation.

Cooked puerh tea (Chinese: 熟茶; pinyin: shoúchá ) is pressed maocha that has been specially processed to imitate aged raw puerh. Although it is more commonly known as "cooked puerh," the process does not actually employ cooking to imitate the aging process.

The process used to convert máochá into cooked puerh is a recent invention that manipulates conditions to approximate the result of the aging process by prolonged bacterial and fungal fermentation in a warm humid environment under controlled conditions, a technique called wòdūi (渥堆, "wet piling" in English), which involves piling, dampening, and turning the tea leaves in a manner much akin to composting.^[1]

The piling, wetting, and mixing of the piled máochá ensures even fermentation.^[1] The bacterial and fungal cultures found in the fermenting piles were found to vary widely from factory to factory throughout Yunnan, consisting of multiple strains of Aspergillus spp., Penicillium spp., yeasts, as well as wide range of other microflora. Control over the multiple variables in the ripening process, particularly humidity and the growth of Aspergillus spp., is key in producing cooked puerh of high quality.^[1] Poor control in fermentation/oxidation process can result in bad cooked puerh, characterized by badly decomposed leaves and an aroma and texture reminiscent of compost. The ripening process typically takes anywhere from half a year to one year after it has begun. As such, a cooked puerh produced in early 2004 will be pressed in the winter of 2004/2005, and appear on the market between late 2005 or early 2006.

This process was first developed in 1972 by Menghai Tea Factory and Kunming Tea Factory^[1] to imitate the flavor and color of aged raw puerh. This technique was an adaptation of "wet storage" techniques that were being used by merchants to falsify the age of their teas. Mass production of cooked puerh began in 1975. It can be consumed without further aging, though it can also be stored to "air out" some of the less savory flavors and aromas acquired during fermentation. The tea is often compressed but is also common in loose form. Some collectors of puerh believe that cooked puerh should not be aged for more than a decade.

Pressing

To produce puerh many additional steps are needed prior to the actual pressing of the tea. First, a specific quantity of dry máochá or cooked tea leaves pertaining to the final weight of the bingcha is weighed out. The dry tea is then lightly steamed in perforated cans to soften and make it more tacky. This will allow it to hold together and not crumble during compression. A ticket, called a "Nèi fēi" (内飞) or additional adornments, such as coloured ribbons, are placed on or in the midst of the leaves and inverted into a cloth bag or wrapped in cloth. The pouch of tea is gathered inside the cloth bag and wrung into a ball, with the extra cloth tied or coiled around itself. This coil or knot is what produces the dimpled indentation at the reverse side of a tea cake when pressed. Depending on the shape of puerh being produced, a cotton bag may or may not be used. For instance, brick or square teas often are not compressed using bags.^[1][1]

Depending on the desired product and speed, from quickest and tightest to slowest and loosest, pressing can either be done by:

• A hydraulic press, which forces the tea into a metal form that is occasionally decorated with a motif in sunken-relief. Due to its efficiency, this method is commonly used to make all forms of pressed puerh. Tea can be pressed in the press either with or without it being bagged, with the latter done by utilizing a metal mould. Tightly compressed bing, formed directly into a mould without bags using this method are known as tié bǐng (鐵餅, literally "iron cake/disc") due to its density and hardness. It is believed that the taste of densely compressed raw puerhs can benefit from careful aging for up to several decades.
• A lever press, which was operated by hand for tight pressings and has largely been replaced by the modern hydraulic press.
• A large heavy stone, carved into the shape of a short cylinder with a handle, simply weighs a bag of tea down onto a wooden board. The tension from the bag and the weight of the stone together gives the tea its rounded and sometimes non-uniformed edge. Due to the manual labour involved, this method of pressing is often referred to as: "Hand" or "Stone-pressing," and is how many artisanal puerh bing are still manufactured.

Pressed puerh is removed from the cloth bag and placed on latticed shelves where they are allowed to air dry, which depending on the wetness of the pressed cakes may take several weeks or months.^[1] The puerh cakes are then individually wrapped by hand, and packaged in larger units for trade or commerce.

Classification

Aside from vintage year, puerh tea can be classified in a variety of ways: by shape, processing method, region, cultivation, grade, and season.

Shape

Puerh is compressed into a variety of shapes. Other lesser seen forms include, stacked "melon pagodas", pillars, calabashes, yuanbao, and small bricks (2-5cm in width). Puerh is also compressed into the hollow centers of bamboo stems or packed and bound into a ball inside the peel of various citrus.

Image	Common name	Chinese characters		Pinyin	Description
		S	T
	Bing, Beeng, Cake, or Disc	饼茶	餅茶	Bĭngchá	A round, flat, disc or disc-shaped tea. Size ranges from as small as 100g to as large as 5kg or more, with 357g, 400g, and 500g being the most common. Depending on the pressing method, the edge of the disk can be rounded or perpendicular. Also commonly known as Qīzí bǐngchá (七子餅茶, literally "Seven units cake tea") due to the fact that seven of the bing are packaged together at a time for sale or transport.
	Tuocha, Bowl, or Nest	沱茶	沱茶	Túochá	A convex knob-shaped tea with size ranging from 3g to 3kg or more, with 100g, 250g, 500g being the most common. The name for "tuocha" is believed to have originated from the round, top-like shape of the pressed tea or from the old tea shipping and trading route of the Tuojiang River.[1] In ancient times, tuocha cakes may have had holes punched through the center so that they could be tied together on a rope for easy transport.
	Brick	砖茶	磚茶	Zhuānchá	A thick rectangular block of tea, usually in 100g, 250g, 500g, and 1000g sizes. Zhuancha bricks are the traditional shape that was used for ease of transport along the Ancient Tea Horse Road by horse caravans.
	Square	方茶	方茶	Fāngchá	A flat square of tea, usually in 100g or 200g sizes. They often contain words that are pressed into the square.
	Mushroom	紧茶	緊茶	Jĭnchá	Literally meaning "tight tea," the tea is shaped much like túocha, but with a stem rather than a convex hollow. This makes them quite similar in form to a mushroom. Puerh tea of this shape is generally produced for Tibetan consumption, and is usually 250g or 300g.
	Melon, or Gold melon	金瓜	金瓜	Jīnguā	A shape similar to túochá, but larger in size with a much thicker body that is decorated with pumpkin-like "stripes". This shape was created for the famous "Tribute tea" (貢茶) that was made expressly for the Qing Dynasty Emperors from the best tea leaves of Yiwu Mountain. Larger specimens of this shape are sometimes called "Human-head tea" (人頭茶) due in part to its size and shape, as well as the fact that in the past it was often presented in court in a similar manner to severed heads.

Process and oxidation

Although puerh teas are often collectively classified in Western and East Asian tea markets as post-fermentation or black teas, respectively, puerh teas in actuality can be placed in three types of processing methods, namely: green tea, fermented tea, and secondary-oxidation/fermentation tea.

Pieces of a 1940's "Green/raw" Tong Chang Hao cake. Note that aging has turned the once green leaves of this cake into brownish black

Puerh can be green teas if they are lightly processed before being pressed into cakes. Such puerh is referred to as maocha if unpressed and as "green/raw puerh" if pressed. While not always palatable, they are relatively cheap and are known to age well for up to 20 or 30 years. Puerh can also be a fermented tea if it undergoes slow processing with fermenting microbes for up to a year. This puerh is referred to as "ripened/cooked puerh", and has a mellow flavour and is readily drinkable. Aged puerhs are secondary-oxidation and post-fermentation teas. If aged from raw puerh, the aged tea will be mellow in taste but still clean in flavour.

According to the production process, four main types of puerh are commonly available on the market:

• Maocha: Green puerh leaves that are sold in loose form. The raw material for making pressed puerhs. Badly processed maocha will result in an inferior puerh.
• Green/raw puerh: Pressed maocha that has not undergone additional processing. Quality raw puerh is highly sought by collectors.
• Cooked/ripened puerh: Pressed maocha that has undergone fermentation in the ripening process for up to a year. Badly fermented maocha will create a muddy tea with fishy and sour flavours indicative of inferior aged puerhs.
• Aged raw puerh: A tea that has undergone a slow secondary oxidation and a certain degree of microbial fermentation. Although all types of puerh can be aged, it is typically the pressed raw puerhs that are most highly regarded, since aged maocha and cooked puerh both lack a "clean" and "assertive" taste.

Regions

Yunnan

Yunnan province produces the vast majority of puerh tea. Indeed, the province is the source of the tea's name, Pu'er Hani and Yi Autonomous County. Puerh is produced in almost every county and prefecture in the province, but the most famous puerh areas are known as the Six Famous Tea Mountains (Chinese: 六大茶山; pinyin: liù dà chá shān )

Six famous tea mountains

The six famous tea mountains are a group of mountains in Xishuangbanna that are renowned for their climates and environments, which not only provide excellent growing conditions for puerh, but also produce unique taste profiles (akin to terroir in wine) in the produced puerh tea. Over the course of history, the designated mountains for the tea mountains have either been changed^[1] or listed differently.^[1][1][1]

In the Qing dynasty government records for puerh (普洱府志), the oldest historically designated mountains were said to be named after six commemorative items that were left in the mountains by Zhuge Liang,^[1] and using the Chinese characters of the native language of the region.^[1] These mountains are all located northeast of the Lancang River (Mekong) in relatively close proximity to one another. The mountains' names, in the Standard Mandarin character pronunciation are:

1. Gedeng (革登山): The term for "leather stirrup" (马蹬, pinyin: mǎdèng)
2. Mansa (慢撤山): The term for "seed sowing bag" (撒袋, pinyin: sǎdài)
3. Mangzhi (莽枝山): The term for "copper cauldron" (铜鉧, pinyin: tóngmǔ) Template:Rf
4. Manzhuan (蠻磚山): The term for iron brick" (铁砖, pinyin: tiězhuān)
5. Yibang(倚邦山): The term for "wooden clapper" (木梆, pinyin: mùbāng)
6. Yōulè (攸樂山): The term meaning "copper gong" (铜锣, pinyin: tóngluó)

Southwest of the river there are also six famous tea mountains that are lesser known from ancient times due to their isolation by the river.^[1] They are:

1. Mengsong Shān (勐宋山):
2. Menghai Shān (勐海山):
3. Jingmai Shān (景迈山):
4. Nánnuò Shān (南糯山): a varietal of tea grows here called zĭjuān (紫娟, literally "purple lady") whose buds and bud leaves have a purple hue.
5. Bada Shān (巴达山):
6. Yōulè Shān (攸乐山):

For various reasons, by the end of the Qing dynasty or beginning of the Republic of China period, tea production in these mountains dropped drastically, either due to large forest fires, over-harvesting, prohibitive imperial taxes, or general neglect.^[1][1] To revitalize tea production in the area, the Chinese government in 1962 selected a new group of six famous tea mountains that were named based on the more important tea producing mountains at the time, including Youle mountain from the original six.^[1]

Other areas of Yunnan

Many other areas of Yunnan also produce puerh tea. Yunnan prefectures that are major producers of puerh include Lincang, Dehong, Simao, Xishuangbanna, and Wenshan. Other tea mountains famous in Yunnan include among others:

• Bāngwēi Shān (邦崴山)
• Bānzhāng Shān (班章山): noted for producing powerful and complex teas that are bitter with a sweet aftertaste
• Yìwǔ Shān (易武山) : perhaps the most popular tea mountain amongst collectors.
• Bada Shān(巴達山):
• Wuliang Shān:
• Ailuo Shān:
• Jinggu Shān:
• Baoshan Shān:
• Yushou Shān:

Region is but one factor in assessing a puerh tea, and puerh from any region of Yunnan is as prized as any from the six famous tea mountains if it meets other criteria, such as being wild growth, hand-processed tea.

Other provinces

While Yunnan produces the majority of puerh, other regions of China, including Hunan and Guangdong, have also produced the tea. The Guangyun Gong cake, for example, featured a blend of Yunnan and Guangdong máochá, and the most recent production of these cakes contains mostly from the latter.^[1]

Other regions

In addition to China, border regions touching Yunnan in Vietnam, Laos, and Burma are also known to produce puerh tea, though little of this makes its way to the Chinese or international markets.

Cultivation

Perhaps equally or even more important than region or even grade in classifying puerh is the method of cultivation. Puerh tea can come from three different cultivation methods:

• Plantation bushes (guànmù, 灌木): Cultivated tea bushes, from the seeds or cuttings of wild tea trees and planted in relatively low altitudes and flatter terrain. The tea produced from these plants are considered inferior due to the used of pesticides and chemical fertilizer] in cultivation, and the lack of pleasant flavours, and the presence of harsh bitterness and astringency from the tea.
• "Wild arbor" trees: Most producers claim that their puerh is from wild trees, but most use leaves from older plantations that were cultivated in previous generations that have gone feral due to the lack of care. These trees produce teas of better flavour due to the higher levels of secondary metabolite produced in the tea tree. As well, the trees are typically cared for using organic practices, which includes the scheduled pruning of the trees in a manner similar to pollarding. Despite the good quality of their produced teas, "wild arbor" trees are not as prized as the truly wild trees.
• Wild trees (gŭshù, 古树; literally "old tree"): Teas from old wild trees, grown without human intervention, are the highest valued puerh teas. Such teas are valued for having deeper and more complex flavors, often with camphor or "mint" notes, said to be imparted by the many camphor trees that grow in the same environment as the wild tea trees. Young raw puerh teas produced from the leaf tips of these trees also lack overwhelming astringency and bitterness often attributed to young puerh.

Determining whether or not a tea is wild is a challenging task, made more difficult through the inconsistent and unclear terminology and labeling in Chinese. Terms like yěshēng (野生; literally "wild" or "uncultivated"), qiáomù (乔木; literally "tall tree"), yěshēng qiáomù (野生乔木; literally "uncultivated trees"), and gǔshù are found on the labels of cakes of both wild and "wild arbor" variety, and on blended cakes, which contain leaves from tea plants of various cultivations. These inconsistent and often misleading labels can easily confuse uninitiated tea buyers regardless of their grasp of the Chinese language. As well, the lack of specific information about tea leaf sources in the printed wrappers and identifiers that come with the puerh cake makes identification of the tea a difficult task. Puerh journals and similar annual guides such as The Profound World of Chi Tse, Puerh Yearbook, and Puerh Teapot Magazine contain credible sources for leaf information. Tea factories are generally honest about their leaf sources, but someone without access to tea factory or other information is often at the mercy of the middlemen or an unscrupulous vendor. Many puerh aficionados seek out and maintain relationships with vendors who they feel they can trust to help mitigate the issue of finding the "truth" of the leaves.

Sadly, even in the best of circumstances, when a journal, factory information, and trustworthy vendor all align to assure a tea's genuinely wild leaf, fakes fill the market and make the issue even more complicated. Because collectors often doubt the reliability of written information, some believe certain physical aspects of the leaf can point to its cultivation. For example, drinkers cite the evidence of a truly wild old tree in a menthol effect ("camphor" in tea specialist terminology) supposedly caused by the Camphor laurel trees that grow amongst wild tea trees in Yunnan's tea forests.^[1] As well, the presence of thick veins and sawtooth-edged on the leaves along with camphor flavor elements and taken as signifiers of wild tea.^[1]

Grade

Puerh can be sorted into ten or more grades. Generally, grades are determined by leaf size and quality, with higher numbered grades meaning older/larger, broken, or less tender leaves. Grading is rarely consistent between factories, and first grade tea leaves may not necessarily produce first grade cakes. Different grades have different flavors, and many bricks feature a blend of several grades chosen to balance flavors and strength.^[1]

Season

Harvest season also plays an important role in the flavor of puerh. Spring tea is the most highly valued, followed by fall tea, and finally summer tea. Only rarely is puerh produced in winter months, and often this is what is called "early spring" tea, as harvest and production follows the weather pattern rather than strict monthly guidelines.

Tea factories

A Menghai microprinted ticket, first appearing in 2006

Factories are generally responsible for the production of puerh teas. While some individuals oversee smaller higher-end productions, such as the Xizihao and Yanqinghao brands,^[1] the majority of tea on the market is compressed by factories or tea groups. Until recently, factories were all state owned and under the supervision of the China National Native Produce & Animal Byproducts Import & Export company (CNNP), Yunnan Branch. Kunming Tea Factory, Menghai Tea Factory, and Xiaguan Tea Factory are the most notable of these state owned factories. While CNNP still operates today, few factories are state-owned, and CNNP contracts out many productions to privately owned factories.

Different tea factories have garnered good reputations. Menghai Tea Factory and Xiaguan Tea Factory, which date from the 1940s, have enjoyed good reputations, but these factories now face competition from many of the newly emerging private factories. For example, Haiwan Tea Factory, founded by former Menghai Factory owner Zhou Bing Liang in 1999,^[1] enjoys a good reputation, as does Changtai Tea Group, Mengku Tea Company, and other new tea makers formed in the 1990s. However, due to production inconsistencies and variations in manufacturing techniques, the reputation of a tea company or factory can vary depending on the year or the specific cakes produced during a year.

The producing factory is often the first or second item listed when referencing a puerh cake, the other being the year of production.

In past two years, a new generation of puerh tea factories has been established. For example, YPT Puerh Tea Factory,^[1] opened in early 2006, already applies the most advanced technology to standardize its product and brands its product with Chinese ancient culture for marketing. High quality mass production and modern marketing strategies have transformed puerh tea from a regional traditional Chinese drink to a nationally widespread trend.

Recipes

Tea factories, particularly formerly government-owned factories, produce many cakes by recipe, indicated by a recipe number. Recipe numbers consists of four-digits. The first two digits represent the year the recipe was first produced, the third digit the grade of leaves used in the recipe, and the last digit represents the factory. 7542, for example, would be a recipe from 1975 using fourth-grade tea leaf made by Menghai Tea Factory (represented by 2). There are also those who believe that the third number indicates a recipe for a particular production year.^[1]

Factory numbers (fourth digit in recipe):

1. Kunming Tea Factory
2. Menghai Tea Factory
3. Xiaguan Tea Factory
4. Lan Cang Tea Factory^[1] or Feng Qing Tea Factory^[1]
5. unknown / not specified
6. Six Famous Tea Mountain Factory
7. unknown / not specified
8. Haiwan Tea Factory and Long Sheng Tea Factory^[1]

Tea of all shapes can be made by numbered recipe. Not all recipes are numbered, and not all cakes are made by recipe. The term "recipe," it should be added, does not always indicate consistency, as the quality of some recipes change from year-to-year, as do the contents of the cake. Perhaps only the factories producing the recipes really know what makes them consistent enough to label by these numbers.

Occasionally, a three digit code is attached to the recipe number by hyphenation. The first digit of this code represents the year the cake was produced, and the other two numbers indicate the production number within that year. For instance, the seven digit sequence 8653-602, would indicate the second production in 2006 of factory recipe 8653. Some productions of cakes are valued over others because production numbers can indicate if a tea was produced earlier or later in a season/year. This information allows one to be able to single out tea cakes produced using a better batch of máochá.

Tea packaging

Puerh tea is specially packaged for trade, identification, and storage. These attributes are used by tea drinkers and collectors to determine the authenticity of the puerh tea.

Individual cakes

Typical contents of a wrapped Bĭngchá

Puerh tea cakes, or Bĭngchá, are almost always sold with^[1] a:

• Wrapper: Made usually from thin cotton cloth or cotton paper and shows the tea company/factory, the year of production, the region/mountain of harvest, the plant type, and the recipe number. The wrapper can also contain decals, logos and artwork. Occasionally, more than one wrapper will be used to wrap a puerh cake.
• Nèi fēi (内飞 or 內飛): A small ticket originally stuck on the tea cake but now usually embedded into the cake during pressing. It is usually used as proof, or a possible sign, to the authenticity of the tea. Some higher end puerh cakes have more than one nèi fēi embedded in the cake. The ticket usually indicates the tea factory and brand.
• Nèi piào (内票): A larger description ticket or flyer packaged loose under the wrapper. Both aid in assuring the identity of the cake. It usually indicates factory and brand. As well, many nèi piào contain a summary of the tea factories' history and any additional laudatory statements concerning the tea, from its taste and rarity, to its ability to cure diseases and affect weight loss.
• Bĭng: The tea cake itself. Tea cakes or other compressed puerh can be made up of two or more grades of tea, typically with higher grade leaves on the outside of the cake and lower grades or broken leaves in the center. This is done to improve the appearance of the tea cake and improve its sale. Predicting the grade of tea used on the inside takes some effort and experience in selection. However, the area in and around the dimple of the tea cake can sometimes reveal the quality of the inner leaves.

A tŏng of recipe 7742 tea cakes wrapped in bamboo shoot husks

Recently, nèi fēi have become more important in identifying and preventing counterfeits. Menghai Tea Factory in particular has begun microprinting and embossing their tickets in an effort to curb the growth of counterfeit teas found in the marketplace in the late 1990s and early 2000s. Some nèi fēi also include vintage year and are production-specific to help identify the cake and prevent counterfeiting through a surfeit of different brand labels.

Wholesale

When bought in large quantities, puerh tea is generally sold in stacks, referred to as a tŏng (筒), which are wrapped in bamboo shoot husks, bamboo stem husks, or coarse paper. Some tongs of vintage puerh will contain a tŏng piào (筒票), or tong ticket, but it is less common to find them in productions past the year 2000.^[1] The number of bĭngchá in a tŏng varies depending on the weight of individual bĭngchá. For instance one tŏng can contain:

• Seven 357g-500g bĭngchá,
• Five 250g mini-bĭngchá
• Ten 100g mini-bĭngchá

Twelve tŏng are referred to as being one jiàn (件), although some producers/factories vary how many tŏng equal one jiàn. A jiàn of tea, which is bound together in a loose bamboo basket, will usually have a large batch ticket (大票; pinyin: dàpiào) affixed to its side that will indicate information such as the batch number of the tea in a season, the production quantities, tea type, and the factory where it was produced.^[1]

Aging and storage

Puerh teas of all varieties, shapes, and cultivation can be aged to improve their flavour, but the tea's physical properties will affect the speed of aging as well as its quality. These properties include:

• Leaf quality: The most important factor, arguably, is leaf quality. Maocha that has been improperly processed will not age to the level of finesse as properly processed maocha. The grade and cultivation of the leaf also greatly affect its quality, and thus its aging.
• Compression: The tighter a tea is compressed, the slower it will age. In this respect, looser hand- and stone-pressed puerhs will age more quickly than denser hydraulic-pressed puerh.
• Shape and size : The more surface area, the faster the tea will age. Bingcha and zhuancha thus age more quickly than golden melon, tuocha, or jincha. Larger bingcha age slower than smaller bingcha, and so forth.

Just as important and the tea's properties, environmental factors for the tea's storage also affect how quickly and successfully a tea ages. They include:

• Air flow: Regulates the oxygen content surrounding the tea and removes odours from the aging tea. Dank, stagnant air will lead to dank, stale smelling aged tea. Wrapping a tea in plastic will eventually arrest the aging process.
• Odors: Tea stored in the presence of strong odors will acquire them, sometimes for the duration of their "lifetime." Airing out puerh teas can reduce these odors, though often not completely.
• Humidity : The higher the humidity, the faster the tea will age. Liquid water accumulating on tea may accelerate the aging process but can also cause the growth of mold or make the flavour of the tea less desirable. 60-85% humidity is recommended.^[1] It is argued whether tea quality is adversely affected if it is subjected to highly fluctuating humidity levels.
• Sunlight: Tea that is exposed to sunlight dries out prematurely, and often becomes bitter.
• Temperature: Teas should not be subjected to high heat since undesirable flavours will develop. However at low temperatures, the aging of puerh tea will slow down drastically. It is argued whether tea quality is adversely affected if it is subjected to highly fluctuating temperature.

When preserved as part of a tong, the material of the tong wrapper, whether it is made of bamboo shoot husks, bamboo leaves, or thick paper, can also affect the quality of the aging process. The packaging methods change the environmental factors and may even contribute to the taste of the tea itself.

Further to what has been mentioned it should be stressed that a good well-aged Puerh tea is not evaluated by its age alone. Like all things in life, there will come a time when a Puerh teacake reaches its peak before stumbling into a decline. Due to the many recipes and different processing method used in the production of different batches of Puerh, the optimal age for each age will vary. Some may take 10 years while others 20 or 30+ years. It is important to check the status of ageing for your teacakes to know when they peaked so that proper care can be given to halt the ageing process.^[1]

Raw puerh

Over time, raw puerh acquires an earthy flavor due to slow oxidation and other, possibly microbial processes. However, this oxidation is not analogous to the oxidation that results in green, oolong, or black tea, due to the fact that the process is not catalyzed by the plant's own enzymes but rather by fungal, bacterial, or autooxidation influences. Puerh flavors can change dramatically over the course of the aging process, resulting in a brew tasting strongly earthy but clean and smooth, reminiscent of the smell of rich garden soil or an autumn leaf pile, sometimes with roasted or sweet undertones. Because of its ability to age without losing "quality", well aged good puerh gains value over time in the same way that aged roasted oolong does.^[1]

Raw puerh can undergo "wet storage" (shīcāng, 湿仓) and "dry storage" (gāncāng 干仓), with teas that have undergone the latter being much more desirable.^[1] Dry storage involves keeping the tea in "comfortable" temperature and humidity, thus allowing the aging process to occur slowly. Wet storage involves spraying the tea with water and allowing it dry off in a humid environment. This process speeds up oxidation and microbial conversion, which only mimics the quality of natural dry storage aged puerh loosely. Wet storage puerh not only does not acquire the nuances of slow aging, it can also be hazardous to drink because of mold, yeast, and bacteria cultures.^[1]

Puerh properly stored in different environments can develop different tastes at different rates due to environmental differences in ambient humidity, temperature, and odours.^[1] For instance, similar batches of puerh stored in the different environments of Taiwan and Hong Kong are known to age very differently. Because the process of aging puerh is a lengthy one and teas may change owners several times, a batch of puerh may undergo different aging conditions, even swapping wet and dry storage conditions, which can drastically alter the flavor of that tea. Raw puerh should not be stored at very high temperatures, or be exposed to direct contact with sunlight, heavy air flow, liquid water, or unpleasant smells, since such poor storage conditions can ruin even the best quality puerh.

Although low to moderate air flow is important for producing a good quality aged raw puerh, it is generally agreed by most collectors and connoisseurs that raw puerh tea cakes older than 30 years old should not be further exposed to "open" air since it would result in the loss of flavours or degradation in mouthfeel. The tea should instead be preserved by wrapping or hermetically sealing it in plastic wrapping.^[1]

Cooked puerh

Since the ripening process was developed to imitate aged raw puerh, many arguments surround the idea of whether aging cooked puerh is desirable. Mostly, the issue rests on whether aging cooked puerh will, better or worse, alter the flavor of the tea.

It is often recommended to age cooked puerh to "air out" the unpleasant musty flavours and odours formed due to maocha fermentation. However, some collectors argue that keeping cooked puerh longer than 10 to 15 years makes little sense, stating that the tea will not develop further and possibly lose its desirable flavours. Others note that their experience has taught them that cooked puerh indeed does take on nuances through aging,^[1] and point to side-by-side taste comparisons of cooked puerh of different ages. Though the storing period increases the value of the tea, it is not often that such actions will be taken as it is not economically efficient.^[1]

Preparation

Preparation of puerh involves first separating a well-sized portion of the compressed tea for brewing. This can be done by flaking off pieces of the cake or by steaming the entire cake until it is soft from heat and hydration.^[1] A puerh knife, which is similar to an oyster knife or a rigid letter opener, is used to pry large horzontal flakes of tea off the cake such as to minimize leaf breakage. Steaming is usually performed on smaller teas such as tuocha or mushroom puerh and involves steaming the cake until it can be rubbed apart and then dried. In both cases, a vertical sampling of the cake should be obtained since the quality of the leaves in a cake usually varies between the surface and the center of the cake.

Puerh is generally expected to be served gongfu style, generally in Yixing teaware or in a type of Chinese teacup called a gaiwan. Boiling water (100 Celsius) is considered optimum and standard temperature for brewing all puerh. Steeping times last from 1-30 seconds in the first few infusions, up to 2-10 minutes in the last infusions. The prolonged steeping techniques used by some western tea makers can produce dark, bitter, and unpleasant brews. Quality aged puerh can yield many more infusions, with different flavour nuances when brewed in the traditional gongfu method.

Because of the prolonged fermentation in cooked puerh and slow oxidization of aged raw puerh, these teas often lack the bitter, astringent properties of other tea types, and also can be brewed much stronger and repeatedly, with some claiming 20 or more infusions of tea from one pot of leaves.^[1] On the other hand, young raw puerh is known and expected to be strong and aromatic, yet very bitter and somewhat astringent when brewed, since these characteristics are believed to produce better aged raw puerh.

Judging quality

Quality of the tea can be determined through inspecting the dried leaves, the tea liquor, or the spent tea leaves. The "true" quality of a specific batch of puerh can ultimately only be revealed when the tea is brewed and tasted. Although, not concrete and sometimes dependent on preference, there are several general indicators of quality:

• Dried tea: There should be a lack of twigs, extraneous matter and white or dark mold spots on the surface of the compressed puerh. The leaves should ideally be whole, visually distinct, and not appear muddy. The leaves may be dry and fragile, but not powdery. Good tea should be quite fragrant, even when dry. Good pressed puerh often have a matte sheen on the surface of the cake, though this is not necessarily a sole indicator of quality
• Liquor: The tea liquor of both raw and cooked puerh should never appear cloudy. Well-aged raw puerh and well-crafted cooked puerh tea may produce a dark reddish liquor, reminiscent of a dried jujube, but in either case the liquor should not be opaque, "muddy," or black in colour. The flavours of puerh liquors should persist and be revealed throughout separate or subsequent infusions, and never abruptly disappear, since this could be the sign of added flavorants.
  • Young raw puerh:The ideal liquors should be aromatic with a light but distinct odours of camphor, rich herbal notes like Chinese medicine, fragrance floral notes, hints of dried fruit aromas such as preserved plums, and should exhibit only some grassy notes to the likes of fresh sencha. Young raw puerh may sometimes be quite bitter and astringent, but should also exhibit a pleasant mouthfeel and "sweet" aftertaste, referred to as gān (甘) and húigān(回甘).
  • Aged raw puerh: Aged puerh should never smell moldy, musty, or strongly fungal, though some puerh drinkers considers these smells to be unoffensive or even enjoyable. The smell of aged puerh may vary, with an "aged" but not "stuffy" odour. The taste of aged raw puerh or cooked puerh should be smooth, with slight hints of bitterness, and lack a biting astringency or any off-sour tastes. The element of taste is an important indicator of aged puerh quality, the texture should be rich and thick and should have very distinct gān (甘) and húigān(回甘) on the tongue and cheeks, which together induces salivation and leaves a "feeling" in the back of the throat.
• Spent tea: Whole leaves and leave bud systems should be easily seen and picked out of the wet spent tea, with a limited amount of broken fragments. Twigs, and the fruits of the tea plant should not be found in the spent tea leaves, however animal (and human) hair, strings, rice grains and chaff may occasionally be included in the tea. The leaves should not crumble when rubbed, and with cooked puerh, it should not resemble compost. Aged raw puerh should have leaves that unfurl when brewed while leaves of most cooked puerh will generally remain closed.

Practices

In Cantonese culture, puerh is known as po-lay (or bo-lay) tea. Among the Cantonese long settled in California, it is called bo-nay or po-nay tea. It is often drunk during dim sum meals, as it is believed to help with digestion. It is not uncommon to add dried osmanthus flowers, pomelo rinds, or chrysanthemum flowers into brewing puerh tea in order to add a light, fresh fragrance to the tea liquor. Puerh with chrysanthemum is the most common pairing, and referred as guk pou or guk bou (菊普; pinyin: jú pǔ). Puerh is considered to have some medicinal qualities.

Health

Drinking puerh tea is purported to aid in digestion,^[1] reduce blood cholesterol^[1] and lipid levels.^[1] It is also widely believed in Chinese cultures to counteract the unpleasant effects of heavy alcohol consumption. In traditional Chinese medicine, the tea is believed to invigorate the spleen and inhibit "dampness." In the stomach, it is believed to reduce heat and "descends qi".^[1]

Puerh tea is widely sold as a weight loss tea or used as a main ingredient in such commercially prepared tea mixtures. Though there is as yet no empirically backed evidence as to how puerh might facilitate weight loss, there are widely proposed explanations include that the tea increases the drinker's metabolism, or that the high tannin content in the tea binds macronutrients and coagulate digestive enzymes, thus reducing nutrient absorption. Although evidence is still sparse, it has been shown that rats experience reduction in body weight, blood triglycerides, and blood cholesterol following a diet containing puerh tea.^[1]

Some puerh brick tea has been found to contain very high levels of fluorine, due to the fact that it is generally made from lesser quality older tea leaves and stems, which accumlulate fluorine.^[1] Its consumption has led to fluorosis (a form of fluoride poisoning that affects the bones and teeth) in areas of high brick tea consumption, such as Tibet.^[1][1]

Investment

Puerh tea can generally improve in taste over time (due to natural secondary oxidation and fermentation). Teas that can be aged finely are typically:

1. Made from high quality material
2. Processed skillfully
3. Stored properly over the years

The common misconception is that all types puerh tea will improve in taste -- and therefore get more valuable as an investment item -- as they get older. There are many requisite variables for a puerh tea to age beautifully. Further, the cooked (shu) puerh will not evolve as dramatically as the raw (sheng) type will over time from the secondary oxidation and fermentation.

As in wine, only the finely made and properly stored ones will improve and increase in value. And as in wine, the percentage of those that will improve over a long period of time is only a small fraction of what is available in the market today.

Notes